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Roku camera re-installation. https://FairfieldIowa.US/house/cam/Roku https://my.roku.com/account was working fine for Cam1 and Cam2. But the Netgear router, Netgear Nighthawk AC1750, working since 2014 finally failed. I got a new one from Walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/TP-Link-Archer-C54-AC1200-MU-MIMO-Dual-Band-WiFi-Router-Works-with-All-Home-Internet-Providers/836529554?wl13=3035&selectedSellerId=0&wmlspartner=wlpa

SSID was Shaddock with alternative Shaddock-guest on the Nightawk. I thought this would be sufficient for the 2 Rokus to use the same Wifi setup. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Roku-Smart-Home-Indoor-Camera-360-SE-Wi-Fi-Connected-Wired-1080p-Security-Surveillance-Camera-with-Motion-Detection-and-Tracking/312329035

 

Your old Netgear Nighthawk router is gone, and the new TP-Link Archer C54 is a dual-band router (2.4GHz and 5GHz). Roku Smart Home cameras, including your Indoor Camera 360° SE models, only support 2.4GHz Wi-Fi—they cannot connect to 5GHz networks. That's likely why they didn't automatically reconnect, even if you tried to use a similar SSID like "Shaddock".Since the Wi-Fi network changed (new router means new network details, even if the name is the same), you need to re-set up each camera in the Roku Smart Home app. There's no direct "change Wi-Fi" option; you treat it like a new installation.Recommended Quick Fix (Easiest Option)Set your new TP-Link router's 2.4GHz SSID and password exactly the same as your old one ("Shaddock").
  • Log into the router admin page: Connect a computer/phone to the router, go to http://tplinkwifi.net or http://192.168.0.1 in a browser.
  • Initial login: The router will prompt you to create an admin password on first setup (no default username/password; it's set during quick setup).
  • In the wireless settings, change the 2.4GHz network name (SSID) to "Shaddock" and set the same password as before. Keep the 5GHz band separate (it usually has "_5G" added by default).
  • Save and reboot the router.

Once done, your cameras should reconnect automatically to the "familiar" network without any reset or app changes. This works because the cameras are still configured for the old SSID/password.If you prefer a different SSID or that doesn't work, follow the full re-setup below.Full Re-Setup Steps for Each Camera (Cam1 and Cam2)

  1. Prepare your phone:
    • Download/update the Roku Smart Home app (iOS or Android).
    • Connect your phone to the 2.4GHz network on your new TP-Link router (not the 5GHz one). Forget the 5GHz if needed to ensure you're on 2.4GHz.
  2. Remove the old cameras from the app (if they still show as offline):
    • Open the Roku Smart Home app.
    • Sign in at my.roku.com if prompted.
    • Go to your devices list, select each camera, and choose to remove/delete it.
  3. Reset the camera (necessary if it doesn't enter setup mode easily):
    • The Indoor Camera 360° SE has a setup/reset button on the bottom.
    • Plug in the camera (it should power on).
    • Press and hold the setup button for 10-20 seconds (some users report needing to try multiple times or hold longer until it works).
    • Success: You'll hear a jingle, the voice says "ready to connect," and the status light pulses blue.
  4. Add the camera as new:
    • In the app, tap the "+" > Add Device > Cameras > Indoor Camera 360° SE.
    • Follow prompts: It will generate a QR code on your phone.
    • Point the camera at the QR code (hold about 6-8 inches away).
    • The app shares your phone's Wi-Fi details with the camera.
    • Enter your new Wi-Fi password if prompted.
    • Wait for connection (keep camera close to router during setup for strong signal).
  5. Repeat for the second camera.

Troubleshooting Tips If It Fails to Connect

  • Move the camera temporarily closer to the router.
  • Restart the router (unplug for 60 seconds).
  • Power cycle the camera (unplug 30 seconds).
  • Ensure no VPN on your phone, and Bluetooth is on (sometimes used).
  • If QR scan fails, try regenerating the code or manual entry if available.
  • Your cameras are wired (plugged in), so no battery issues.

This should get Cam1 and Cam2 back online and visible again. If you run into a specific error message during setup, let me know for more targeted help!

 

Here are screen shots of the router setup page. I made the .JPG files 666 pixels wide, yet zoomable. Can you still read them ok? Do you need me to type the text from the jpg so you can read them better?
https://FairfieldIowa.US/house/wifi/setup
https://FairfieldIowa.US/house/wifi 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/TP-Link-Archer-C54-AC1200-MU-MIMO-Dual-Band-WiFi-Router-Works-with-All-Home-Internet-Providers/836529554?wl13=3035&selectedSellerId=0&wmlspartner=wlpabn

Browsing web page
3 results
Searching the web
18 results
The screenshots at those URLs didn't provide readable text details (the pages seem to load mostly as image placeholders or minimal content without extractable text from the router interface itself). The 666-pixel width is fine for viewing, but automated extraction couldn't pull out labels, fields, or values clearly—likely because they're rendered as images without alt text or OCR-friendly content. No need to type everything out unless there's a very specific field or error message that's hard to describe; instead, can you tell me:
  • What tab or section is open (e.g., "Basic" view, "Advanced > Wireless", "Status", or the Quick Setup wizard)?
  • What are the current SSID names shown for 2.4GHz and 5GHz? (Often labeled as "Network Name (SSID)" or similar.)
  • Is there a Smart Connect option visible, and is it enabled or disabled? (This merges 2.4/5GHz into one SSID.)
  • What does the Wireless or Wi-Fi status show (enabled/disabled, security type like WPA2/WPA3, channel)?
  • Any password fields visible or hidden? And do you see your old "Shaddock" SSID anywhere, or completely new/default ones like "TP-Link_XXXX"?

This will help pinpoint the exact spot in the interface. In the meantime, here's how to proceed on the TP-Link Archer C54 to make your Roku cameras reconnect easily by matching the old network (the quickest fix).Step-by-Step to Clone Your Old Wi-Fi Settings (Recommended)

  1. Access the router admin page (if not already there):
    • Connect a phone/laptop to the current router Wi-Fi (or via Ethernet cable to one of the yellow LAN ports).
    • Open a browser and go to http://tplinkwifi.net or http://192.168.0.1 (most common for this model; try http://192.168.1.1 if that fails).
    • If it's your first time or after reset, it may start a quick setup wizard—complete it to set an admin password.
    • Login: Newer TP-Link models like C54 usually prompt you to create a password on first login (no default username/password like old "admin/admin"). If it asks for credentials and you don't remember, you may need to reset the router (hold the reset button on the back for 10-15 seconds until lights flash, then start over).
  2. Disable Smart Connect (if enabled) — this is key for separate 2.4GHz control:
    • Go to Advanced tab (top or side menu) > Wireless > Wireless Settings or look for "Smart Connect".
    • If Smart Connect is on (one shared SSID for both bands), turn it off. This splits them into separate 2.4GHz and 5GHz networks.
  3. Change the 2.4GHz SSID and password to match your old Netgear:
    • In Advanced > Wireless > Wireless Settings (or Basic > Wireless if in simple view).
    • Look for the 2.4GHz section.
    • Network Name (SSID): Change it to exactly Shaddock (case-sensitive, no extra spaces).
    • Password: Set it to your old exact password from the Nighthawk.
    • Security: Set to WPA2-PSK (AES) if possible (most compatible with older Rokus/cameras; avoid WPA3-only if listed).
    • Leave 5GHz as-is (or rename it something like "Shaddock-5G" to avoid confusion).
    • Enable the 2.4GHz band if it's off.
    • Click Save. The router may restart Wi-Fi—your phone might disconnect briefly.
  4. Test and apply:
    • After saving, connect your phone to the new/old "Shaddock" network using the password.
    • Power cycle the Roku cameras (unplug 30 seconds, plug back in).
    • They should auto-reconnect since the SSID/password match what they're already programmed for. Check in the Roku Smart Home app if they're online.

If the cameras still don't come back (rare, but possible if they cached the old router's MAC or something), fall back to full re-setup as I described before: reset each camera (hold bottom button 10-20s until jingle/blue pulse), then add as new in the app while your phone is on the 2.4GHz band.Let me know what you see on those pages (especially SSIDs and Smart Connect status), or if you hit any specific error/button, and we'll tweak from there. You're very close—this router supports the change easily!